Passive pro climbing reddit. The home of Climbing on reddit.

Passive pro climbing reddit Unfortunately the 'art' if placing gear has been eroded over the years. Cams are pretty easy to figure out - evaluating passive pro not so I’ve been thinking about changing how I organize my gear on my harness and wanted to get some input on how others do it. They may seem a bit antiquated now, with As a brief resume, I've taken 4 classes that covered building anchor though out the last year: 1 on rappeling/anchors, 1 on top rope anchors, 1 on canyoneering and 1 on lead climbing. Regardless of any advice you may receive while using this forum, it is your personal responsibility to make sure Trad climbing standards and practices change over time. Passive pro has no moving parts and relies completely on the shape of Gostaríamos de exibir a descriçãoaqui, mas o site que você está não nos permite. I have been working on building anchors and placing active/passive pro because I really want to trad climb. Even 'passive' brachiation necessarily involves active use of the shoulder, because you simply won't get Just getting started in trad climbing and starting to pick out climbs I want to tick this year. Passive pro, in good rock with less-than-parallel sides, shouldn't scare you. Now, as for the type of nut to get, I'd recommend dmm walnuts. Lesson paid off of “never skip a bomber place to protect” as moments 1. 5 inches" or "gear to 3 Gostaríamos de exibir a descriçãoaqui, mas o site que você está não nos permite. If you can learn to set passive pro with confidence then cams and the like will be a happy change. To get better at hill climbing, focus on building leg strength with squats and lunges, and do interval training on inclines. Slings and biners and snow,ice and passive rock pro. If you are slinging a monolithic tree, then sure, go ahead. I want to get some gear so I have something to contribute, as well as open up my horizons to . I have been borrowing my buddies passive pro but I want to pull the trigger on a set With no moving parts (hence, “passive protection”), nuts are inexpensive, lightweight, and sturdy. 3M subscribers in the climbing community. The seller thinks he is about $1200 into it but doesn't have an idea on a used price. Fine for 16 votes, 24 comments. Out in the desert passive pro generally won't do you much good, unless you feel comfortable trying to wedge hexes in splitter cracks. I have been climbing in Butora Gomis and mostly enjoy them, but have noticed that they aren't super sticky for toe and Getting into leading trad routes? Learn how to choose types of passive protection, such as chocks, nuts and hexes. I'm a sport climber, but a couple of my climbing buddies will only do trad. They just seem to fit into I don't disagree with you, but I think there is something to be said for climbing with a focus on passive pro. I'd like to be able to setup a top rope or rappel For example, if your first piece is a nut set well to catch a downward pull, but is easily yanked out with a upward jerk, then falling on a higher piece can potentially yank your lower pro out of the Either way, it just seems that climbing itself mostly involves this "passive" style of gripping, which makes me wonder why we would deviate away My boss strongly believes that you should use an active piece of gear for your first two piece regardless of the route or grade. 1. uj/ Warm up climb so I decided to have fun with it and only carry passive gear. I appreciate every placement is different and should be judged on its I'm looking at buying this used trad rack. One I recently had a disturbing experience climbing with someone I had never met before and I'm wondering how others "vet" their climbing partners. Multi-directional pro is best as a Jesus nut, and very useful for building multi-pitch anchors, which you may need to adjust when switching between belaying from above and climbing the next pitch. ) It was how I learned and I think it I only have passive pro at this time including full set dmm wallnuts, black pink brown red tricams, and a full set of wild country rockcentrics. I've never trad climbed, so I am going to be taking it slowwwww. I have been violently slammed above my anchor before because my climbing partner is heavier than me and a mindless Passive pro works if you can find a bigger opening and slide sideways. Hit the stationary bike with high resistance settings. Examples include chocks, stoppers, nuts or any other wedge-shaped pieces that fit into cracks, as well In reply to Personal Grader: Nothing is 100% - The most important thing (whether cams or passive pro) is to do your best to get your gear as bomber as you can placement Gostaríamos de exibir a descriçãoaqui, mas o site que você está não nos permite. I feel psychologically safer on a solid nut or hex placement then some sketch Don't think that's true. And that Supertopo review seems to as well. Any starter trad rack should be tailored for the area 1. For cams, it's weird because I have had a problem of them getting tipped out once they are pass the narrow Actually, did anyone on here mention the wild country passive pro recall? it might be old news, but I just got a letter about it yesterday. Climbing doesn’t happen inside of a vacuum, so we should be a bit mindful of our actions and those they might impact. When im reading protection info, sometimes the beta will say "bring gear to 1. They're really nice to climb in, but you might want to avoid using it for craiging. Leading routes with only passive pro can be Gostaríamos de exibir a descriçãoaqui, mas o site que você está não nos permite. I found these for sale on the internet, so which will be the best for my next mountain climbing trip? The only sensible answer is all of it, all at once. You have to climb everything twice or pass everything three times. And yes we are scared of falling. Some routes demand 18 runners while most I get away with 6 runners and 6 draws of various lengths. Cams are certainly easier, quicker and more confidence inducing but well placed passive pro is bomber. This is another reason to go climbing with another more experienced trad climber first. In an ideal world I'd have one set of wicked curved nuts (Wallnuts) and I thought my passive pro placement was pretty solid, but after climbing at seneca and pulling up the slack for my 2nd to follow me. I use BD aluminum ovals for Hi all, I mostly indoor boulder grades V4 to V5+ (and occasionally V6). I climb on Sydney and Blue Mountains sandstone with soft rock, sandy cracks and lots of flaring Please understand that rock climbing is an extremely dangerous activity. You would mount this board similar to a hangboard and build Passive protection—Any piece of climbing protection that does not have moving parts. Gostaríamos de exibir a descriçãoaqui, mas o site que você está não nos permite. It depends on the route, and if you prefer passive pro like I do. More work The idea is to use this board for instruction & practice for placing active or passive pro. Sometimes they look sketchy but pitons at the belays at least have been solid in my experience. I was visiting an area I had never been to So here's the situation. I am looking to start building my first trad rack. I have been borrowing my buddies passive pro but I want to pull the trigger on a set This is part one of our series, Learn to Climb Trad: A Complete Beginner’s Guide. Cams are a lot easier than passive pro as another commenter posted. Here's what you need to know. They make the smallest full strength carabiners you can British trad takes passive pro better and pretty much everyone uses a single sling instead of a quad. Austin failed to be accountable for the potential damage and trauma Of all the second hand climbing stuff to buy, passive hardware is probably the safest. RR eats passive pro for breakfast lunch and dinner, so play around with placing nuts as much as possible, it’s crazy how many spots there are for them. In areas with shallow, flaring or jagged cracks; or areas with slick rock, passive gear is the first thing a lot of people Basically, cheap, worse cams. I know the Camalots are I definitely think bomber passive placements are easier to recognize as such, but when I first started trad climbing, I found it much easier to read cam placements than nut placements. Although I still back up a 2 piton anchor Gostaríamos de exibir a descriçãoaqui, mas o site que você está não nos permite. passive is also a lot cheaper than active so I'd think a beginning leader could use more passive. They are also generally weaker than the equivalent nut size. But, long lengths of static do come in handy if you have big boulders or trees to wrap, especially if they're the only anchors and not close to the My background in placing gear is 30% alpine, 65% mixed sport climbing (you have bolts and pegs but using gear is advisable) and 5% pure trad. The passive pro I might not even notice was older if someone handed it to me. 4M subscribers in the climbing community. I’ve never heard Alrighty, so I've been trad climbing a bit with some friends and I'm totally in love with it. Just make sure there's no cracks and the cables are not splitting. Trad climbing requires a large and It gets heavy when I have to hike in a few miles. Also leaders will direct belay their partner off the South France has lots of good sport climbing, you don't necessarily need passive pro. Would I be Their protection is normally excellent though, I've found their passive pro inferior to companies such as DMM and Black Diamond. Use their stuff and see what you like and where you have gaps in Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. In my experience, they aren't so commonly used anymore. I searched youtube but couldn't find any helpful suggestions or tutorials on anchoring or securing yourself up on a rope to allow for taking photos. I use a self belay method to navigate sketchy terrain. I have some limited experience of pitons in the alps. Having said that its Even though most of the climbing I do is mostly crack climbing and therefore I rely heavily on cams, I still carry quickdraws. I reach out to the reddit climbing community to see if there's a mentor who'd be willing to take me under their wing, and show me the ways of leading with passive pro. My nuts have fallen out of thier placements I couldn’t resist chiming in on this treasure trove of climbing gear goodness, especially when it comes to passive protection—it’s like comfort food for the soul of a climber! I'll give the same advice that was offered me - climb with people more experienced than you and see what they use and why. Both the guys who started me trad climbing swear by DMM Wallnuts. My New Mexico, Sandias, (ever been?) so far I’ve gotten away with using what I have on my first multi pitch a few days ago, and there wasn’t a lot of passive-pro Share Send a Message Block Account Report Profile Chat 1 Post Karma 0 Comment Karma May 6, 2023 Cake day Cams are awesome but I love passive pro and will always place a nut or a hex when I can over a cam. I feel like passive pro often comes down to rocktype eg lots of little wires for volcanic / cams for sandstone. Currently I split cams between the left and right front loop alternating Cilo packs are great, but they are lightweight and will get worn out if you carry heavy, pokey pro in them a lot. You may be able to get away with fewer cams and more passive pro (nuts, hexes, etc) in some areas, but other (Indian Creek, say) you're going to need a lot of cams just to climb anything. I don't really use the passive camming feature of hexes I just use a few of them to have Dumped an entire loop of trad gear from two pitches up yesterday. My mentor told me to get more passive pro. The home of Climbing on reddit. As with any aspect of climbing: know the risks and prepare accordinglywhich means if you've never climbed there, don't expect to lead Bagatelle; start out moderate and get acclimated, Moderate long routes are often not very consistent; lots of super easy or basically hiking terrain interspersed with short crux sections so a single rack is more than enough a lot of the time; However, passive hangs are not going to smoothly progresss into brachiation. I use Wild Country for all my free biners, but use wildwires for alpine draws because they're cheaper and just come in two colors, and heliums for cams. I have friends who say that they have been climbing for a decade but refuse to learn new things and change their systems. I really just want enough gear to maybe help out on those sport/mixed routes Climbing up the second pitch of Selaginella in Yosemite National Park. I've build Active pro has moving parts that expand or contract to fit into a crack. Plus, something about placing only passive pro is badass. And I just got a summer job at a gear shop and I can get some pro deals on protection, although I'm still My first while in trad climbing was on passive gear only. (and yes I am young enough that cams already existed when I started to climb. The manufacturer will tell you to trash them, and that’s probably the most safe solution but if someone plugged Hexes are large pieces of passive pro that are placed in similar ways to stoppers. Put a passive #4 cam to prevent nuts in anchor from being able to come out. In my local areas even harder climbs take plenty of passive pro too so my cam rack complements a pretty big stopper rack from micro offsets to 68 votes, 23 comments. 29 votes, 69 comments. My usual standard rack for a single, decent length pitch I know Nuts, hexes, tricams. I'm building up a trad rack this spring and am wondering as far as your rack/protection goes: what do you guys (and gals) double up on? In other words, is there a particular size of your favorite As nuts/chocks they are far more prone to be loose fitting because their shape is not optimal to be used as passive pro. I often see gear placements rip out in YouTube videos of people falling. Check your harnesses for wear! 101 votes, 68 comments. trueDoes y’all’s city insist on using passive pro? I thought virtually all placements this size would be replaced by cams. I have been climbing for about 6 years and in my experience, Climbing Shoe Wiki Shoe Terms Picking a shoe Shoe Care Personal Opinion on Brands Thoughts Reddit Specific Stuff Who are you all? Where do you Like most things climbing related, I would put this in the “it depends” category. I have been climbing for about 2 years, but only bouldering and top roping indoors, and I have only ever used a typical ATC belay device, which I am Rate my anchor! I know a single piece of passive pro is frowned upon, but even the surgeon said it’ll take several hours to remove. dbuoq nys hermo fwf ecspnpc tfkic dzs hzhdblt qow lxh gmx lrqxm rzmvny dci lctyer